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Moisturizers : Ingredients to look for

Posted by Erum Ilyas on
Moisturizers : Ingredients to look for
When looking for a moisturizer, consider looking for these ingredients to see if some of these are present to help your skin look and feel more hydrated. 
Hyaluronic acid tops the list for ingredients because it is very effective at drawing moisture to it. It’s a little confusing to some people because they worry that it might be irritating because of the word ‘acid’.  It is also a bit misleading because many people think that Hyaluronic acid ON the skin will provide the same effect as injected INto the skin as we do with fillers. This is not the case. Hyaluronic acid applied on the skin does not fill under the skin. It actually draws moisture to it and hydrates the skin at the surface so effectively it can give the appearance of minimizing fine lines and wrinkles. In spite of these common misconceptions it’s a wonderful dry skin product. It is ideally used in conjunction with a moisturizer on top of it. The main reason for this is because if the skin is excessively dry, the Hyaluronic acid will still ‘seek’ moisture to pull into it. It may paradoxically dry your skin further if it doesn’t find it!! Remember to apply a moisturizer on top so it can pull this extra hydration in from the product. 

Glycerin is in tons of products for dry skin! It’s a wonderful product that, similar to Hyaluronic acid, absorbs moisture like a sponge. These types of products are called humectants- they literally attract moisture into the skin. Glycerin is light weight, mild and very effective at keeping the skin hydrated.  Before the ‘product explosion’ of countless options to try these days, I used to recommend just buying glycerin and mixing it with a regular moisturizer to help the product spread easier, hydrate and not leave the skin feeling too greasy. You can still do that and save a lot of money:) 
Panthenol is another humectant which makes it ideal as a serum for dry skin as it attracts moisture as well. This one is also found commonly in hair products designed to trap moisture and protect  the hair follicles. 

Niacinamide is also known as vitamin B3. Although this can hydrate the skin as well, most of its reputation is built on its anti inflammatory effects. It’s been used as an add-on for acne treatments for years to reduce the redness and inflammation associated with breakouts. For dry skin, most people will start with what appears to be ashy and dry skin. If this lingers too long without being addressed, those dry cracked areas of the skin can become inflamed and exquisitely sensitive (think of those times when you apply hand sanitizer and your skin just feels like it’s on fire!) With this concept I always go back to the analogy of give my patients- think of your skin as not smooth like a wall, it’s more like a cobblestone street. When your skin dries out it’s as though the mortar that holds the bricks (your skin cells) together is breaking down. This leaves it open to any insult from the environment which will inflame and irritate your skin. Think of niacinamide as a key anti inflammatory that will help bring down this inflammation while also hydrating your skin!

Botanical water/oil  are very common ingredients to find in serums. These are always nice to look for- ingredients such as Argan oil can hydrate the skin without clogging your pores. These alone are wonderful. However, when I look through products in the large cosmetic stores I’ll often find these ingredients with the anti-aging serums. If you are treating dry skin, please look at labels! Avoid buzzwords like ageless, age defying, anti aging- these will often have added alpha hydroxy acids that may irritate dry skin.

Vitamin E is lightweight, effective and very very affordable! If is a cost efficient way to deliver safe and easy moisture to your skin without leaving you feeling too greasy! 
Dry feet that results in thickened heels and calluses is a challenging condition.  When the skin thickens and dries it can start to “crack” like pavement on a sidewalk and becomes sensitive or sore.  Scrubbing this is not effective as it recurs rapidly.  Moisturizers containing keratolytics, ingredients meant to chemically exfoliate the skin, are most helpful.  Look for ingredients such as salicylic acid or urea in your products. 

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